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April 03, 2022 10 min read 0 Comments
In the previous entry, the main underlying cause of nearly all algae issues was discussed. Excess organics, poor Co2 and O2 control, insufficient maintenance and cleaning all create imbalances which trigger algae. Herein we will look at the different types and the secondary conditions which can exacerbate each type of algae, as well as the solutions for eradicating any outbreaks.
Although each of these types have similar causes and solutions, beyond the general primary causes listed above and in the last entry, they all present differently in aquariums.
Often called Hair/String/Fuzz and Staghorn, these different algae generally share the same appearance, as noted by their common names. Presenting as either wispy or coarse hairs, these algae are most commonly found attached to plants at their outset but can spread to hardscape (rock and wood) as well. In general, when any algae attach or form on plants it is due to poor or unstable plant health. The opportunistic algae will feed on the decaying plant matter as it releases carbohydrate sugars during decomposition. Unstable or fluctuating tank
Less severe outbreaks can often disappear on their own if the above noted causes or solutions are addressed.
Severe outbreaks can also be rectified with time but may require more drastic tank cleanup and plant rehabilitation. In extreme cases, chemical solutions such as spot treating with H2O2, or other commercial algaecides can be useful. Avoid tank dosing of these chemicals or Gluteraldehyde solutions where possible as they can further damage your tanks overall health.
Black Beard or Black Brush algae (BBA) presents in short tufts of pinkish grey to black furry spots. This algae is quite difficult to remove manually and can appear on plants and hardscape materials, as well as filter or circulation pump outputs. When appearing on plants, the same catalysts and solutions, as listed above, for Hair algae apply. Poor plant health, excess organic materials and fluctuating parameters. If presenting on hardscapes, again, excess organic waste and fluctuating parameters are the main culprit.
Less severe outbreaks can often disappear on their own if the above noted causes or solutions are addressed. A cleanup crew of shrimp can also aid in less severe cases but should not be a replacement for good maintenance and care.
Severe outbreaks can also be rectified with time but may require more drastic tank cleanup and plant rehabilitation. In extreme cases, chemical solutions such as spot treating with H2O2, or other commercial algaecides can be useful. Avoid tank dosing of these chemicals or Gluteraldehyde solutions where possible as they can further damage your tanks overall health.
For hardscape materials, remove from the tank if you can and rinse and rub the algae off under running water (always ensure to dechlorinate before returning to the tank)
Green Dust Algae is one of the more common algae to present itself. So common that many see it as a usual occurrence in all tanks, an inevitability, it is not. GDA will appear on plants, hardscape rock and wood, and most commonly on grass. Many people will be familiar with GDA as the stuff they have to scrape weekly off the walls of their aquariums. As prevalent as GDA is, it has the easiest fix of all common algae. Time and Temperature are the two main factors. GDA is known to be a hotspot algae, it forms in areas of overly high light and increased temperature. It also is most common near the early stages of an aquariums setup. Immature bacterial colonies and imbalanced nutrients also feed GDA as an opportunistic Algae.
In extreme situations, 3-5 day total blackout of the tank. (NOTE : Blackouts can put plants under stress which may lead to other algae triggers)
Green Spot Algae can appear to form in many of the same locations as Dust Algae, It is often seen on glass or slow growing plants. Where it differs from GDA, is that the small green spots are quite a bit more difficult to remove manually from glass, often requiring multiple passes with scrapers or razor blades to remove it. And it is near impossible to manually remove it from plants. Slow growing plants like Anubias, Ferns or Cryptocoryne varieties often seem to be the most easily affected. Although difficult to remove manually, GSP can disappear with same treatment methods as Hair Algae as they are usually triggered by the same issues; poor plant health, fluctuating parameters and excess organics.
Outbreaks can often disappear on their own if the above noted causes or solutions are addressed. Severe cases on plants require trimming of affected leaves.
Cladophora presents as coarse, thick areas on hardscape and substrate primarily, although appearance on plants is still possible. Cladophora has the appearance of moss, so much so that Cladophora Balls or Marimo are often erroneously called Moss Balls. These collected balls of Cladophora algae are sold as decorative additions to tanks. Oddly, although Cladophora Balls are formed in river systems where the balls shape by being moved through the current. Cladophora in and aquarium is often caused by poor water movement and high direct lighting. It can often be found in overcrowded areas, thicker moss regions and near slower growing plants.
Severe outbreaks can also be rectified with time but may require more drastic tank cleanup and plant rehabilitation. In extreme cases, chemical solutions such as spot treating with H2O2, or other commercial algaecides can be useful. Avoid tank dosing of these chemicals or Gluteraldehyde solutions where possible as they can further damage your tanks overall health.
Often referred to as Pea Soup because of the presentation of vibrant green water throughout the whole tank is often one of the most panic inducing outbreaks for new tank owners, even though it is the simplest in terms of cause and solutions. Green Water most often appears in new tanks or poorly maintained tanks.
For severe cases, 4-5 day total black out period for lights and possibly the inclusion of a UV Sterilizer as a last resort
Although Blue Green Algae has many varieties, the most common presentations of it are as a slimy coating at the substrate levels. Slightly less common varieties like Nostoc appear as a translucent slime or slime bubbles or balls on substrate, hardscape and filter equipment. A common sign of BGA is drastically lowered Nitrate levels as BGA has a strong tendency to fixate gaseous nitrogen during photosynthesis. Like many of the other green algae, excess organic waste, fluctuating or poor o2 levels and poor plant health are the common triggers.
Less severe outbreaks can often disappear on their own if the above noted causes or solutions are addressed.
Severe outbreaks can also be rectified with time but may require more drastic tank cleanup and plant rehabilitation. In extreme cases, chemical solutions such as spot treating with H2O2, or other commercial algaecides can be useful. Avoid tank dosing of these chemicals or Gluteraldehyde solutions where possible as they can further damage your tanks overall health.
In conclusion, as noted in the previous entry and shown here, the most common causes and solutions to most of the common algae types comes down to keeping your tank clean, well maintained and balanced. Strong healthy plant mass and stable conditions which allows for same, will not only eradicate most algae but will also stop them from becoming a full outbreak or even appearing at all in some cases. Patience, consistency and good establishment of the fundamentals are paramount to supporting a healthy planted tank environment. Lackadaisical tank care will ultimately lead to more work and struggle against opportunistic algae. Seek to establish healthy parameters and a clean tank before rushing off to find a chemical cure at the first sign of algae, as these treatments often put plants and the aquatic system as a whole under even greater stress. Quick fixes are never a replacement for solid fundamentals of planted tank care.
Thanks for reading
NilocG